Day 14:October 4

We encounter an interesting fellow peregrino.

Villafranca Montes de Oca to Cardeñuela Riopico

Surprise surprise, I awoke to another fine morning. The weather had been tremendous so far. Very warm by mid afternoon ( I’d estmate around 27C ) but it could have been so much worse. A month before, the shade temperatures had been over 40 C in Pamplona. On the other hand it could have been raining. I reiterate, the weather we had was wonderful for walking. The first part of this day’s walk is relatively hilly but what I remember most was the very wide extent of the track at this early stage cutting through extensive woodlands on both sides. There was also quite a soft surface to walk upon, though I could well imagine this becoming a complete mud bath in wet weather. But as I’ve found before – walking upon these dry forest tracks is usually very easy, comfortable and tailor-made for rapid progress, but there is a definite monotony due to the lack of changes in the scenery. One tree looks very similar to the next one. That’s how it was here that morning.

It’s during this wooded stage that we came across the monument commemorating the Spanish Civil War. From what I read I gather that there are several such monuments dotted around in various parts of Spain. It reminded me of the brief conversation with Steve about the sensitivity that still exists around the Civil War, whilst we descended from the Alto del Perdón on the afternoon of Day 4. I found it quite a relief to emerge from the confines of the forest from time to time when occasionally the tree cover thinned out. From one such clearing the village of San Juan became visible in the distance, as seen below.

The Camino does keep close to the forested area all the way to San Juan. San Juan was the very obvious choice for the day’s first serious intake of food and drink.

Beyond San Juan we passed through the villages of Agés and Atapuerca. I can remember thinking that the name ‘Atapuerca’ seemed more suited to a South American ‘pueblito’ than a European Spanish one. We didn’t visit the UNESCO site here that marks, apparently, Europe’s oldest site of humanity. It is 3km distant from the village. Dan and I did though take the opportunity for further refreshment in the village.

The next stage of the Camino beyond Atapuerca passes through further wooded areas and the terrain becomes increasingly rocky as it ascends into the hills. It was in the first part of this stage that we passed by the peregrino that I have previously nicknamed ‘Mr K’ (see the picture in the blog post for Day 12). We exchanged the ‘buen camino’ pleasantry but that was as far as the verbal communication went. But what we particularly noticed was that ‘Mr K’ wasn’t wearing any type of footwear at the time we passed him!!! Instead a pair of trainers/walking shoes were suspended from his mochila. Mr K was small in stature and of very slight build, but despite that there was something very distinctive about him, something that I couldn’t quite put my ‘finger’ on. The track traverses quite a rough and rocky stretch of ground as the top of this particular hill is approached. Eroded limestone apparently, in its white splendour. We wondered just how the bare-footed MrK was going to cope with it! At the very top the trees are left behind and there is a very tall wooden cross and a metal sign bearing a message for passing peregrinos. The sign bears the message:-‘Since crossing the hills of Navarra at Burguete and seeing the vast expanses of Spain has the peregrino ever enjoyed such a wonderful view as this one ?’ Indeed, I fully agreed – that afternoon the view westwards was tremendous. My first sight of the city of Burgos in the distance, tomorrow’s objective. In the foreground were the next couple of pueblitos on the Camino in one of which we were hoping to stay for the night.

So onward we proceeded. The descent was quite gradual and straightforward. The afternoon weather was gorgeous as they all had been so far on this Camino. Upon entering Cardeñuela Riopico a prominent billboard displayed the delights of albergue Santa Fe. So that’s where we headed…and there were beds available.

Excellent. Today’s job done and all before 15:00. There wasn’t much to do in Cardeñuela so I did some washing and sort of chilled out until the evening meal. By Camino standards it was a quiet night. But before I forget, we did later that afternoon observe Mr K, sat by himself, out in the albergue’s garden. He had survived the rough and rocky section and so earned the chance to fight on for another day.

Thought for the day.

1.So today as yesterday was another of the Camino days where there was no specific incident to focus upon in this section of the blog posting.

2. Because of that it gives me more time and space to sing the praises of what could be easily overlooked. Generalities easily get taken for granted. So I can mention once again the remarkable fact that my nose had remained totally unblocked for all of the time that I have been in Spain. For several years back in England it had been blocked to various degrees. The net result of this condition has been an almost total loss of my senses of taste and smell. I had sought various remedies from time to time none of which had proven effective. I had wanted to ‘cure’ the condition before embarking upon the Camino but never got round to it. So you can imagine how much I was surprised but equally pleased to have both of these two senses back in action! Was it an effect of the change in climate?, the change in water??, something in the food??? or was it some strange power emanating from the Camino????